Variety isn’t just the spice of life; it’s also one of the most exciting things about food. In the case of coffee, this is no different.
Due to similar environmental conditions between farms, the flavour profile of coffee beans grown in the same country tends to be fairly consistent. This is handy to know when choosing from the plethora of options when shopping for coffee at your local shop but, as with all rules of thumb, is open to exceptions – either good or bad ones at that.
Today, we consider one of the good exceptions: the Geisha coffee varietal from Panama – a rare varietal of coffee with a unique flavour profile that surprises anyone expecting a typical Panama coffee. This particular bean was originally brought over from Ethiopia because of its natural resistance to coffee rust. Most believed that this was its only virtue and, since it was a low yield plant compared to other varietals in the region, it was overlooked for decades and quietly slipped into blends where it was hidden.
This all changed when one farm, the now famous La Esmeralda, put together an exclusively Geisha cup in 2004 that was proclaimed “God in a cup”. Instead of the chocolate and velvety mouth feel that is typical of quality coffees from Panama, Geisha coffee is more delicate and strongly floral. Different forms of processing can bring out vastly different flavours, but all of them are quite bright (in other words: tangy, fruity, or wine-like flavour characteristics).
Phil and Sebastian Coffee Roasters paired up with the Finca Hartmann farm to release a unique Geisha series. Beans from the same plant are presented three different ways, all processed with a different natural method: honey, natural, and washed. Each brings out very different, exciting flavours on the cupping table. Holding all other variables constant, it is a special experience to see the vast differences that processing can make.
The tasting notes:
- Honey: black tea, honey/caramel, tangerine
- Natural: dried plum, fresh fig, strawberry juice
- Washed: mango/papaya, jasmine, chocolate
What a treat.